Wednesday, March 22, 2017

Preparing for your New Bees

A beekeeper can’t be a beekeeper without bees. Packages and Nucleus Hives (NUCs) are the simplest way of finding new honey bees. If you have not pre-ordered your Package or NUC yet, we still have some available for pick-up at our retail stores. Click here to view our pick-up dates and pricing. If you have already found your source for honey bees, you are well on your way to becoming a beekeeper! Before you get started, though, here are a few tips on how to best prepare for your new bees.

Nucleus Hive (NUC) being opened for inspection

Pick up your bees in an appropriate vehicle.

Honey bees in transit are not the happiest. The longer they are confined, whether it be a package or a NUC, the more stressed they become. Would you not be as well? The stress of transporting a colony can cause them to overheat and cook themselves. This is one of the reasons why we recommend you pick up your package of bees rather than having them shipped. They will need constant airflow to keep them from overheating. An open bed vehicle like a truck is a great vehicle to transport bees. If you have to load the bees into a car to travel, make sure you have the windows open and air conditioning on the entire trip. You may get a little chilly but that may be better than cooking your new investment.

DO NOT pick up your hive supplies the same day you get your bees.

Every hive component (hive tops, boxes, and bottom boards) needs either a coat of laytex paint or a sealant to help protect and preserve the wood. The paint or sealant must be dry and the odor dispelled before you install your bees. Picking up your supplies the same day as bees will require an additional 3-5 days before your hive will be ready for the bees. Order your supplies now and get them ready.

Make sure you provide plenty of feed for your new colony.


Installed Package w/ a Cypress Entrance Feeder

Imagine that you have just moved to a new city. Are you going to know where the closest grocery store is located? How long will it take you to build that bookshelf in order to organize your house? While your new colony is learning the environment around them, you will want to provide plenty of sugar syrup for them to feed on. Sugar Syrup is easy to mix and can be fed to the bees in many different devices. Adding feed supplements will provide the additional nutrition to the sugar syrup the bees need. A good rule of thumb is keep feeding your hive sugar syrup until they stop taking it or until the first honey super is added.


It’s never too early to start fighting Varroa Mites.

They are considered one of the key factors in honey bee decline. A small, bloodsucking tick opens wounds on the bees making them more susceptible to infections and diseases that can last multiple generations. Varroa’s reproductive cycle is based upon that of the bees and the female mites will produce young within capped brood cell. One of the best times to treat for Varroa is before the bees are able to cap their brood. Packaged bees will not have capped brood and can be easily treated with a mixture of sugar syrup and oxalic acid, a natural varroa treatment. In a package 100% of varroa mites are exposed so there is nowhere for them to hide.

Friday, October 21, 2016

Wintering Bees Cluster: What's going on?

A common question that non beekeepers constantly ask is how bees survive through cold winter temperatures. “They create a cluster and use vibration to keep the cluster warm” is the typical response that usually concludes “they do not hibernate”. As beekeepers, do we truly understand what is happening within that cluster? We understand that the bees generate metabolic heat, but how?

Honey bees would not have a chance if they did not function as a highly organized superorganism that worked efficiently. Each bee fills a need within the colony and this assigned division of labor allows honey bees to be successful.

To maintain heat within the cluster the colony mush be able to produce heat and use bees to insulate and reduce heat loss. The bees on the outer edges of the cluster act as insulators and will rotate into the center where the temperature is warmest. The “heater bees”, as discovered by Professor Jurgen Tautz at the Wurzburg University, in Germany, are responsible for maintaining the temperature of the brood nest.
Thermal imaging has revealed that heater bees will decouple their wings so the muscles can move at full speed without moving their wings. This movement will increase their body temperature to the point where they should cook themselves, up to 111 Fahrenheit, but are able to withstand. Further investigation revealed that the heater bees would position themselves in empty cells amongst the brood in order to sustain temperature in the surrounding cells. These bees will even place their thorax on cells to increase the temperature within by a few degrees.

The point to be mindful of is that the cluster stays warm, the hive does not. Bees make no attempt to maintain heat throughout the entire hive. A hive that is uniformly warm would not require a cluster to form around the brood. Warmth is essential for maintaining brood health and bee movement.

How can beekeepers help?
  •  Beekeepers are able to help the colony maintain cluster temperature by removing unnecessary dead air space. Condense the hive down to manageable setup and reposition the food stores for easy access.
  • Insulators are great to trap heat but will also trap in moisture. Choose a material that is absorbent or allows for moisture to escape.
  •  Use windbreaks to prevent gusts of wind penetrating the hive.
Some great resources for assisting with the cluster include:

Thursday, September 22, 2016

What Makes Winter Honey Bee's so Special?

Have you ever wondered why winter bees live longer?

The Answer: Vitellogenin.

Next question; what is Vitellogenin?

Vitellogenin is classified as a glycolipoprotein as it has properties of sugar, fat and protein. The honey bee colony's health is dependent upon the buildup of this protein reserve as it acts as an antioxidant to prolong the Queen and forager's lifespan. It is also used to produce royal jelly and is a vital part of the bee's immune system. Additionally, it functions as a hormone that affects future foraging behavior. Within the worker bees, those with the highest levels of Vitellogenin are given the job of nesting bees while those with exhausted reserves become foragers.

How does this impact my winter bees?

We always recommend feeding bee's sugar syrup with a supplement going into the winter. This is a no-brainer. What we don't touch upon is the protein intake of a colony. The best indicator of adequate protein is the diversity of pollen stores. Colonies that are still rearing brood can easily deplete their pollen stores and begin to delve into their Vitellogenin during a pollen dearth. The upcoming winter generation needs to have built up lipids and proteins stored in their fat bodies (nutrients held in the bees body) so that they may survive without honey stores. Keep in mind that high levels of vitellogenin going into winter will help with the pollen shortage in early spring.

There are many advantages to feeding syrup and protein sources in the fall. There are several nutritional supplements that can be included in syrup to incorporate the needed nutrients to maintain a healthy colony.

  • Honey B Healthy us used in spring and winter to stimulate the immune system
  • Amino B Booster is a blend of free amino acids that assimilates directly through the mid gut to the bees' hemolymph and hemocytes, then transported to the sites where protein is needed for bee growth.
  • Vitamin B Healthy provides the needed nutrients vital for bee health when pollen sources are scarce or pollen lacks the essential nutrients.
  • Hive Alive strengthens the bees' immune system and helps bees absorb the nutrients, proteins and sugars needed to increase brood production.

Beekeepers with negligible fall pollen should look to pollen sources to sustain or build up protein reserves. The best pollen source would be that extracted from the colony or from a reputable local supplier, however, there are other substitutes that will provided the needed protein and lipids.
  • You need to look to sources with protein levels higher than 25% such as our Ener-G-Plus which provides this with approximately 32% crude protein.
  • Save time with the prepared pollen substitute in patty form.
Honey bees require protein, carbohydrates, lipids, vitamins, minerals and water. Ensure the emerging generation going into winter has an abundant, nutritional diet so they may pack in their fat bodies for longer months.


Monday, August 22, 2016

What is a Resource Hive?

(This is a sample of one of the many blogs we provide in our free Monthly E-Newsletter. In the newsletter we discuss everything from beginner beekeeping to your second year with the hive, product highlights and updates on the current state of beekeeping. It's FREE to receive our monthly e-newsletter just click here to register.)


Introduced to Brushy Mountain Bee Farm's expansive inventory last year, the Resource Hive has become a very popular resource for beekeepers. The Resource Hive consists of a 10-Frame size hive body that has been divided to accommodate two 4-Frame NUCs. It also includes two additional 4-frame NUC boxes so you can expand your NUC to a second story if you need to. The bottom board that comes with it has also been adjusted to create two entrances on opposite ends for each 4-frame portion. It works with a 10-Frame Telescoping Top (sold separately) Its popularity stems from the multiple ways it can be used:

Overwintering NUCs: Trying to keep a NUC going over winter to help grow a hive in the spring? The double chamber in the Resource allows you to keep two NUCs in one hive, using heat generated by both hives to help keep the hive temperature stable through the winter. You can even alternate each story with a frame of brood and a frame of stored honey / sugar syrup (checker boarding) to help provide easily accessible food during the winter.

Boost Weaker Colonies: Needing to build up a weak colony? Condensing a weak hive down into one half of the Resource Hive allows the colony to concentrate more on rebuilding itself than expanding.

Making Spits: With the bottom hive body divided into half, it's never been easier to split a hive. Take the frames from the hive you want to split and divide them on each side of the Resource Hive. Keep note of which side of the resource hive the queen is located and begin to introduce a queen to the other half of the hive. Once the new queen has been successfully introduced to the split you can then relocate both colonies to separate hives to continue their growth.

Raising Queens: Seal off the space between the top and bottom story and you now have 4 separate 4-Frame NUC boxes you can use to raise queens. Use the NUC inner cover entrances as entrances for the 2nd story while using the bottom board entrances for the 1st story.

Learn more about the Resource Hive and order your own here.

Friday, June 17, 2016

Time to Collect Honey, Part 2: Extracting

Read the 1st part of the blog, covering harvesting honey tips, here.


Let's talk about extractors. Extracting your honey frames is exciting but poses many questions. Do I need an extractor? What size extractor should I get? Which is better, hand cranked or powered? There are three main questions you need to ask yourself and the answers will point to the extractor that best fits your needs.

How many hives do you intend to have?
You do not want to outgrow the extractor. You may have five or ten hives currently but you are expecting to expand your bee yard to thirty hives. By the time you reach your thirty hives you do not want to look back and wish you had gotten the bigger extractor.

What is your budget?
Let's be realistic, an extractor is a large investment. There are different alternatives if an extractor isn't in your budget. You may be able to borrow/rent an extractor from your local bee association; you can uncap and let the honey drain from the frames; you can strain your comb through cheese cloth; other methods are also available.

How do you value your time?
Extracting is not a ten minute process that will happen in an afternoon. Each extractor will hold an allotted amount of frames. The more frames an extractor will hold the less cycles you will need to run to extract the honey from the frames. Do you have time to run through thirty extractions on a compact extractor or would it be beneficial for you to run six on a 21-frame extractor?

We have developed a chart that shows the amount of time needed to extract with each extractor. The time depicted is for running extractor and does not include time needed for uncapping, loading, unloading, and any other actions needed for extracting.

Time consumption for extracting will depend on the extractor being tangential or radial. Tangential extractors seat frames parallel to the center and only extract one side during the spin cycle. Radial extractors seat frames perpendicular to the center and will extract both sides at once.

Anticipating the number of hives you will have in the future will help you decide what extractor size will work best for you.

For more information about extractors and what models are available, click here.

Thursday, June 16, 2016

Time to Collect Honey, Part 1: Harvesting & Uncapping

Colonies that survived through winter grown enough in population going into the nectar flow to store an excess amount of honey in late spring/early summer. Those fortunate beekeepers will be able to harvest and extract this sweet reward. Harvesting and extracting your honey is a multi-step process.

The first step is to remove the honey super from the hive. Every beekeeper will have their own method of clearing out the honey super in order to remove from the hive and some are easier than others:
  • Using a bee brush to brush off every frame is time consuming and will leave your bees irritated and ready to sting.
  • An escape screen is placed between the brood chamber and the honey supers. A simplistic concept that has the bees 'escape' from the honey super down into the brood chamber. It does require all upper entrances be closed off.
  • Fumes resonating from the sun baking down on a fume pad drenched in Natural Honey Harvester will quickly force your bees to vacate without contaminating your honey. This is the quickest method to evacuate your honey super.

Once you have the honey super removed you will need to uncap the frames in order to extract the honey. The number of frames you are uncapping and the time you want to spend during this step is dependent upon the method you should proceed with. Here are some of the most common methods of uncapping:

Using a Cappings Scratcher is an easy method to work small sections of capped honey at one time. Slide the forks underneath the comb at a horizontal angle and lift vertically to remove cappings. Many beekeepers will scrape the forks against the comb to open the cells. Please note this damages the comb and requires more cleanup from your bees.

A Cold / Hot Knife will slice away larger sections of capped honey from the frame. Place at a slight angle along the top and move down the frame in a sawing motion. Be careful not to 'dig' into the comb or tear apart the frame. The Cold Knife has a serrated blade and can stick if not kept clean. The Hot Knife is temperature sensitive and will melt away the wax. Preheat before use. A Cappings Scratcher may be needed for unevenly drawn out sections of the frame.
The Rolling Uncapper will roll over the capped honey and pierce the cappings. Allow the cappings to be pierced by pulling or pushing the Rolling Uncapper parallel to the frame. Do not push roller into the frame. Clean the central bar if roller begins to stick when rotating.
If time is of importance, the Sideliner Uncapper is a quick and easy method. Run your frames through the roller blades and both sides of your frame will be uncapped. This does not require you to hold the frame and all the debris is caught in the container underneath the sideliner uncapper. A Cappings Scratcher may be needed for unevenly drawn out sections of the frame.


Click here for Part 2 where we talked about trying to figure out what extractor or extracting process would work best for you.


Wednesday, May 18, 2016

Maintaining a Healthy Queen in your Bee Hive

(This is a sample of one of the many blogs you will find in our Monthly E-Newsletter. In the newsletter we discuss everything from beginner beekeeping to your second year with the hive; product highlights and updates on the current state of beekeeping. It's FREE to receive our monthly e-newsletter just click here to register.)


What are signs of a productive queen?


Finding the queen is a difficult and timely task that is unnecessary. Always check for signs of eggs when inspecting your colony. Eggs indicate a Queen was present within the last 3 days. Eggs, larvae, and capped brood confirm a balanced expanding colony.

    • Healthy Larvae should appear white, plump, and glistening. Discolored and dried up larvae are signs of Chalkbrood or other diseases that should be identified and treated.
    • Brood frames should be full looking with brood of similar age. The queen works from the center to the outside; therefore, eggs and larvae of the same size should be found in different stages, moving from the center of the frame to the outside.
    • Assess the number of frames that contain brood. Populations will continue to increase with the abundance of resources in the area, will typically remain stagnant during the hot summer months, and begin to wane in the fall with the decline in nectar flow. Brood chamber(s) with 5 to 8 frames filled with brood is ideal.
    • Finding multiple eggs per cell is a sure sign of a laying worker. A laying worker will take the role of the queen if the colony is queenless for an extended period of time.
    • Full sections of drone cappings on a brood frame is a good signal that the queen was not properly mated.
Do not be fooled! Some missing indicators of a healthy queen can be contributed to other events happening in the hive.

When a hive is preparing to swarm the queen will slow her production, leaving a manageable brood nest for the remaining hive to care for. In addition, there will be an interruption in brood rearing as the virgin queen returns from her mating flight and settles into the hive.

After new queens are introduced they may lay multiple eggs in the same cell and the occasional drone egg amongst the worker brood. After time she will settle down to a normal laying pattern.

When to replace your queen.


Replace the queen at the first signs of failing. A few weeks with a substandard queen in the spring can impact their health and strength going into winter. Some beekeepers will replace queens in colonies that are overly aggressive. Introducing a new queen with a gentle temperament will eradicate the defensive nature of the colony.



Capped Queen Cell. It is common to find uncapped queen cells in any hive, but if you find a capped queen cell that means the hive is actively working to supersede the queen.

How to replace the queen.


DO NOT KILL THE CURRENT QUEEN UNTIL YOU HAVE YOUR NEW QUEEN IN HAND. The colony will be aware of the queen removal within a few hours and begin building supercedure cells.

New queens are typically received in a queen cage that is sealed with candy and possibly a cork. Locate the existing queen and permanently remove her from the hive. Wait 24 hours before introducing the new queen and remove any queen cells found in the hive. Secure the new queen cage between the frames at the top of the brood area with a rubber band or other device to prevent from falling. The candy end needs to be facing up to prevent dead attending bees blocking the entrance and the screened facing open to the colony so the queens pheromone is dispersed throughout hive and other attending bees can care for her.


DO NOT REMOVE THE CANDY! Never directly release a new queen into a colony. The risk of her not being accepted is too high. It may take up to a week but allow the colony to become acclimated to her pheromone and release her. A colony will be more acceptant of a new queen if there is a strong nectar flow; therefore, apply a feed to your hive.

A failing queen will not improve and needs to be replaced. A proactive measure is to replace her every one to two years.